Gaby Aghion, who helped found French fashion house Chloé in 1952, has passed away, aged 92. A remarkable woman, Aghion left an indelible mark on the fashion world. Industry figures were quick to pay their respects with Karl Lagerfeld saying, "She helped me in a way to become what I am now - and that you will never forget." Chloé’s spring/summer 2015 show yesterday was dedicated to the designer’s memory. Aghion is survived by her son, Philippe Aghion, and his two children.
CELINE: PARIS FASHION WEEK S/S 2015, BACKSTAGE GIRLS
See backstage pictures from Céline’s spring/summer 2015 show.
Line-ups tend to have a certain kind of rhythm about them. A set of colours, patterns, textures and silhouettes which are placed strategically throughout exits, in order to compose a fully satisfying whole. If collections were in fact pieces of music then Phoebe Philo’s latest for Céline utilised an orchestra, as opposed to the comparative bands of other houses. It seemed sort of useless attempting to dissect the set of references in this symphony, and better to simply enjoy. Stand out take-aways for us included the floral and sort of folky- as sported by Natalie Westling, who looked like the abstracted image of an 80’s Laura Ashley woman in a meadow (the circle on her shoulder resembling a fallen boater). We also loved the holes chomped out of the centre and sides of outfits, which in snugger fabrications might have seemed a little Pretty Woman. And of course the shoes which seemed like the traditional ballet kind, raised onto a stern wooden heel. A complex and affecting puzzle of a show. So affected were we that instead of our usual backstage pictures, we’ve followed the girls right out onto the runway….
EXCLUSIVE FIRST LOOK | Today, i-D and BoF are pleased to unveil ‘Fashion at Work’, a short film directed by Aaron Rose featuring members of the second annual #BoF500, including Alexa Chung, Carine Roitfeld and Tim Blanks among many others. Watch it now!
JOHN GALLIANO: PARIS FASHION WEEK S/S 2015, BACKSTAGE GIRLS
See backstage pictures from John Galliano’s spring/summer 2015 show.
Galliano’s girl was all about camo this season. Though far from hiding, exits full of boldly printed and embellished plays on the idea made sure she’d be seen. Gawped at even. Beyond the already outlandish element of ensembles was the pedestal effect of her shoes. A clompy cross breed which felt like something simultaneously born of traditional dress in some far flung locale, and 90’s club kids.
GIVENCHY: PARIS FASHION WEEK S/S 2015, BACKSTAGE GIRLS
See backstage pictures from Givenchy’s spring/summer 2015 show.
There’s something quite Xena: Warrior Princess about Riccardo’s girls this season. It’s the thigh-high leather boots, the corseted bodices, the Roman gladiator dresses and the girls’ hard-edged sex appeal. They look like they could just as easily give you a lap dance as they could put a sword through your chest and battle the forces of evil. As Nicole Phelps wrote, “These were the baddest bitches on the Givenchy runway in a long time.” Though hard-edged, there was a delicacy and haute-couture-like quality to the clothes they wore, decorated as they were with studs, lace, whipstitching, and filigree. A hard-edged and hard-to-achieve beauty.